December
2019
Greetings
from burnt-over Wat Buddha Dhamma, 10 Mile Hollow, Wisemans Ferry,
NSW 2775, Australia; www.wbd.org.au
The thirty year old Sala survived the second bushfire.
I
have not been writing much in this blog over the last while,
basically because there was not much to 'ramble' about. However,
things changed quickly after the Rainy Season Retreat with the on-set
of the Australian Bushfire season. Then it was so busy that I had
little energy or time to write!
As
some of you may know, Wat Buddha Dhamma is situated deep in the
Dharug/Yengo National Park surrounded by dry eucalyptus bushland.
When bush fires threaten we are advised to evacuate to a safer place.
For Tuesday, November 12, the Fire Danger Level for NSW and
Queensland was raised to 'Catastrophic', meaning all those in
fire-prone areas should evacuate to safer areas.
Since
we were in no immediate danger (although the Park Ranger suggested
otherwise), we initially did not think to leave. However, when we
reconsidered the implications, some other options arose. We were in
the path of an extensive, fast-moving, out-of-control fire some 45
km away (Gosper's Mountain – the 'mega fire' now engulfing 470,000
ha) and would be spending the day shrouded in acrid smoke in
temperatures approaching 40C.
After
careful consideration it was decided that it might be a suitable day
to take a picnic lunch and visit the local town to complete a few
errands, then review the conditions in the early afternoon. By early
afternoon fire conditions had deteriorated considerably with hot,
windy conditions fanning existing fires and producing new ones. We
thus decided to de-camp to an apartment made available to the Sangha
in west Sydney to review conditions in the evening. By early evening
fire conditions had truly become 'catastrophic' with 80 fires burning
throughout the state, 15 at Emergency Level.
Thus,
at the invitation of our generous Vietnamese supporters, we remained
overnight and were offered the next day's meal. By morning, with a
cool southerly weather change, fire conditions were considerably
reduced and we made our way back to the Wat. As we approached
Wisemans Ferry the northern horizon was covered in smoke, and from
the ridge road we could see massive plumes of smoke billowing up from
the vast swathes of burning National Park forests towards the
northwest. Fortunately, the monastery property and surrounding area
was not impacted by the fire, although the area was covered in a
layer of ash, including finger-sized scorched leaves blown 40 km
across the hills.
Our
second evacuation occurred towards the end of November with a
lightening strike at Three Mile Line on the Old Great North Road.
Since we are at Ten Mile Hollow on the Old Great North Road we did
not appear to be threatened. However, the Fire Service was concerned
that the fire would cut off our access road and advised to evacuate.
With telephone calls coming in, a siren-wailing helicopter hovering
overhead and a visit by fire personnel, we decided to depart for the
lodging in west Sydney to appease the officials.
We
returned to the monastery the following day and met an official who
said all was good and that they would begin a controlled burn soon to
contain the fire some two miles from us. However, this was delayed
and high winds on Monday forced the fire over the proposed
containment line to within 5 km of us. On Tuesday morning we were
warned that the fire was slowly approaching but that the winds were
directing the main fire-front away from us towards the east. However,
by late afternoon we were notified of potential 'ember attack' and,
collecting our valuable possessions, all assembled in the vicinity of
the kitchen/office in preparation. Having donned protective clothing,
set out fire hoses, filled gutters with water and cleared extra-wide
fire-breaks, we sat down for refreshments as increasingly dense smoke
billowed over the ridge. Just as we were preparing to retire to our
'safe house' – an earthen building stocked with water and medical
supplies, and with ample clear space – the first flames crept over
the ridge to the south-east. It was still about 600 meters distance
and on the opposite side of the road from the monastery so did not
appear overly-threatening – night was approaching, the winds were
dying down and the fire was moving downhill.
We
casually watched the flames creeping along the ridge when three
helicopters suddenly flew overhead and landed in the large field
nearby telling us to depart immediately leaving all belongings
behind. I was not keen to leave my passport and necessary items so
suggested that we could take our belongings and drive out the back
route away from the fire. This was agreed and we quickly loaded our
things and departed in two vehicles, remembering to take the chain
saw and bolt cutters (in case the gates were locked).
We
set off briskly but, upon making our first right hand turn through
the clearing under the power lines, observed that the fire front had
crested the ridge and was halfway down the nearby slope. We had not
realized that the westerly winds had forced the fire-front past our
position towards the east. We moved off more briskly on the eastward
track and several more curves directed us straight towards a steep
slope where the flames were being whipped 40 meters over the ridge
tree tops. We descended the narrow track winding along a rocky gorge
over deeply rutted washouts before the track leveled out and the
bush thickened through the gulley. However, in the lower reaches of
the valley the smoke began to thicken and another curve brought us to
within 150 m of a ribbon of fire creeping down the slope. For a
moment I thought that the fire may be in front of us but we had
little choice but to continue forward. We sped ahead through
thickening smoke and darkness only to run into a fallen tree across
the track. Fortunately we had the chain saw and were able to quickly
clear the path as the red glow flickered over our right shoulders.
Our departure route after the fire.
Shortly
we arrived at the track along Mangrove Creek, fortunately recently
ploughed, and turned away from the encroaching fire front along an
increasingly well-maintained gravel track, then up the opposite slope
through Dubbo Gulley to Upper Mangrove village. While we waited to
find a place to stay, a Rural Fire Service vehicle arrived to confirm
that we had all managed to evacuate and report on the advance of the
fire.
After
a short discussion, the six of us were very warmly received by the
residents of Aloka Meditation Centre where we resided for two nights.
Then our Vietnamese supporters took us to a house in west Sydney and
the next day we travelled to Santi Forest Monastery where Sisters
Jitindriya and Jayasara generously invited us to make use of the
much-appreciated quiet and solitude.
For
nearly a week we had little news of the condition of the monastery
except that dramatic footage on national television of my cottage
blazing and helicopters water-bombing the Sala sent panic through our
lay community and an avalanche of text messages expressing concern (https://www.abc.net.au/news/2019-12-04/one-home-has-been-engulfed-by-the-three-mile-fire/11767160).
Finally one of our fireman supporters managed to access the property
and reported that the buildings were 80% intact! We have since made
an inspection to assess the damage. Fortunately, all main buildings
survived, and the only loss were three monk's huts [including the iconic 'Ayya Khema' Rock Kuti], plus several
caravans, wood piles, toilets and water tanks. Unfortunately, some of
the water pipes were damaged and water supply has been disrupted.
Also unfortunately, most of the forest has been completely
devastated, in some places leaving only charred sticks standing.
Ayya Khema Rock Hut before ...
... and after fire.
The
following weekend many supporters braved the difficult conditions of
trees on roads, smouldering stumps, charred forest and cold showers
to assist in an initial clean-up. A week of chain-sawing and plumbing
work has now seen most tracks cleared and water restored to the
monk's area.
We
are most grateful to the Rural Fire Service who helped protect some
of the buildings, to all those who generously housed and supported us
during this chaotic and distressing time and all the open-hearted
people who expressed their well wishes and contributed to expenses
and the re-building fund.
The
smell of burnt wood and sight of blackened forest still lingers about
the property (probably for months), however, we are heartened by the
dawn chorus of cackling kookaburras, the sighting of our local
wallabies, wombats and goanas, as well as increasing numbers of
birdlife.
IMPERMANENCE
While
all situations in life can be a source of contemplating impermanence,
it is extreme times like this that bring the truth of impermanence
directly into our minds. Most often we contemplate impermanence while
in a relatively safe and secure environment such that this
contemplation is usually in the abstract – yes, things are
impermanent but not me. Suddenly, in the blink of an eye, your world
can be turned upside down and, if you have not seriously understood
impermanence, you can be over-whelmed with suffering at all levels of
being at once.
One
of the huts which burned down was the Mahathera cottage where I had
been staying. Initially, someone who saw the television images told
us that it was the Sangha House which had burned down. This news was
saddening, but when we established that actually it was my lodging
that had burned down, I had to choke back some personal tragedy for
the belongings I left behind!
Mahathera Cottage before ...
... and after.
I
am still getting used to the situation where people wish to offer me
something and my first thought is that I already have it. Then I
realize that actually, it is now burnt up in my former lodging!
Interestingly, upon reflection, it was not the things themselves that
were the source of sorrow but rather the sense of me and mine which
those things represented.
There were things associated with my
personal history – a fossil from the rocky coast of Portugal; there
were things that relieved some personal pains – special
circulation-stimulating socks for feet pain; there was my selection
of favourite teas, etc.
In
one sense, of course, this can be positive as a means of liberation
from identity. Yet, while nothing there was irreplaceable, there is
still sorrow at any loss of selfness, and a form of dislocation
before another sense of (new) selfness is re-established –
hopefully more in tune with continuous impermanence.
The
Buddha often encouraged the contemplation of impermanence as one of
the direct means to liberation. Other times he extended this to
include the contemplation of dukkha since impermanence is always
unpleasant for the sense of selfness, which is founded upon stability
and need for security. This can lead to an increased understanding of
'anatta', no stable self, in that, what is impermanent and dukkha is,
of course, not a stable self.
We
blindly assume that we are in control of our life. However, the
ultimate truth is that our life is controlled by the elements of
earth, fire, water and air. While we may rant and curse them when
they are extreme, we should reflect that actually these elements were
here long before us. They are just impersonally following their
nature – we are the ones who are in the way.
Wishing
you all an insightful New Year and the peace of realization.